Spear guide
The spear is not just its tip.
The shaft
A spear shaft should be straight, knotless ash with a long, flat grain. The shaft should be oval and lenticular and possibly covered with linen. The diameter should not exceed 26 mm, the shape should be adapted to the overall length, which in turn depends on personal use or the control system. Both ends of the shaft should be rounded or chamfered.
Straight means that the shaft should not deviate too much from the center line over its entire length. More than 2 cm is already a lot, 5 cm is far too much.
Knotless means that there is no knot growth in the grain of the wood.
Ash is the ideal wood for spear shafts. Many of the finds are also made of ash.
Long flat grain means that the grain runs parallel to the shaft and the annual rings do not run out of the shaft or even run at a clear angle to the shaft. If the grain is not close to the stock, the grain is perfect. I always make sure that the better grain is on the side with the tip. Experience has shown that the side on which the spear is held is less stressed by fencing.
Oval refers to the cross-section. This gives you more control over the alignment of the shaft and blade. It also gives the feeling that the shaft has a better grip. In my case, the shaft is approx. 2 mm wider than it is high.
Lentil-shaped refers to the entire shaft. In other words, the shaft is slightly thinner at the front and back than in the middle. This makes the shaft a little lighter and also makes it easier to feel the position on the shaft. In my case, the difference is approx. 2 mm.
Both factors together result in the spear shaft measuring 22 × 24 at the front, 24 × 26 in the middle and 22 × 24 again at the back.
Fabric cover To protect the shaft, the front part of the shaft can be covered with the thinnest and strongest possible linen. A layer is glued onto the shaft with as little overlap as possible. I use a strip that corresponds to (circumference plus 1 cm) × (1.5 m minus the length of the spearhead). The overlap is therefore a maximum of 1 cm in my case. In my case, a sheath of more than 1.5 m is not necessary, as most weapons do not reach that far. I always made the sheathing dependent on my previous spears and took their damage into account under the motto “as much as necessary and as little as possible”. In the meantime, I no longer use any sheathing at all.
Rounded or chamfered means that the wooden ends of a spear shaft should not have any sharp edges. Even the end that will later be covered by the spearhead. This is because every spearhead falls off one day and this mainly happens during battle. The rear end also hits occasionally, so rounding is recommended.
Shaft stiffness This refers to the bending of the shaft in a lateral direction when force is applied either from the tip or from the side. There are different opinions on this. Neither too yielding (wobbly) nor too little yielding (too stiff) is recommended. So far, I have chosen by feel.
The Point
The point should be blunt and rounded according to the rules, with a well-fitting spout that corresponds in shape, size, and aesthetics to the era depicted. To achieve this, the surfaces should be hardened and retain their shape, possess adequate rigidity, and yield in a smooth arc under heavy loads.
Blunt refers to the flattening of the point. It should have a large surface area so that thrusts do not cause injuries. There are specifications depending on the rules. In our case, this is 1 cm2
Rounded so that all edges should have a width of at least approximately 2 mm and be at least beveled (deburred), or better still, rounded with a radius greater than 1 mm. See also here.
Well-fitting spout, the spout should merge into the shaft without a significant difference in height. This is both authentic and prevents injuries and snagging on clothing.
Shapes refers to the outer appearance of the lace. Above all, its outline should correspond to historical models, as this is the most recognizable.
Size, this usually refers to the overall length, but also the diameter of the spout. The latter in particular is usually oversized in historical comparison.
Aesthetics The relationship between the spout and blades as well as their angle and contour and the overall lines are important. But typical features such as a centre ridge should not be missing either. This also has a significant influence on dimensional stability, but is also a feature of historical functional aesthetics.
Hardening the material should be made in such a way that no nicks or cracks occur in the course of numerous battles.
Stiffness the shape should be retained even during a fight and no permanent deformation should occur.
Even curve, this refers to a bend that curves evenly without kinks. This is similar to the limbs of an archery bow, which bend evenly under tension. ( See also Tillern)